tahniah buat pasangan ini
4-10-2009
ape itu panning?
Panning ni ialah salah satu teknik mengambil gambar terutamanya gambar objek yg bergerak..contohnya,kereta lumba,org tengah berlari.org terlompat2...Tujuannya ialah supaya satu efek "pergerakan" dapat dilihat pada gambar yg menjadikan gambar tu lebih menarik.
ihsan gambar dari bro tenno_rz
Cara pegang camera dengan betol
cara yang kurang tepat
cara yang kurang tepat juga
cara yang dicadangkan
.
.
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Cara unorthodox yang dicadangkan
kamera diletakkan di atas bahagian dada sebelah kiri, bukan atas bahu tapi bawah bahu sikit, supaya denyutan jantung kita tidak memberi gangguan kepada kamera kita.
nak lebih lanjut ble click kat link bawah nie
fungsi M,A,S,P kat butoon seblah kiri camera NIkon
M for manual, A for aperture priority, S for shutter priority, P for program.
Kalau pakai M = Set aperture ngan shutter speed secara manual
Kalau pakai A = Pilih aperture ikot suka hati, nanti kamera tu cari shutter speed yang sesuai.
Kalau pakai S = Pilih shutter speed sesuka hati, nanti kamera pilih aperture yang sesuai.
Kalau pakai P = Kamera sendiri yang pilih aperture ngan shutter speed
Kalau pakai M = Set aperture ngan shutter speed secara manual
Kalau pakai A = Pilih aperture ikot suka hati, nanti kamera tu cari shutter speed yang sesuai.
Kalau pakai S = Pilih shutter speed sesuka hati, nanti kamera pilih aperture yang sesuai.
Kalau pakai P = Kamera sendiri yang pilih aperture ngan shutter speed
Basic photography tips
Seterror mana pun kita .. kita tetap bermula dari bawah
Always bring your camera
The number one reason why people miss good pictures is because they don't have a camera. Make it a habit to always carry a camera with you, because you never know what you could miss.
Shoot more
If you think you shoot enough - you don't. Especially if you have a digital camera, because there is no added cost to taking more photographs. Why take just one picture if you can take several? Are you in a place you may never visit again? Take a picture, because even the most boring day to day scenes can become historical in just a few years of time.
trust your eye
Studying laws of composition is fine, but when it comes down to you must trust your eye. When you frame the shot, move the camera and explore the scene. When you find an angle or composition that FEELS good to you, take the picture immediately. You can (and should) get several more shots.
train your eye
Look at the pictures you have taken and critique your own work. Did the image turn out like you planned? Do you like the composition? This self-review stage is essential for you to improve your photographic "spider-sense".
know your camera
You don't need to memorize every feature right away, but over time you should be comfortable enough so that operating your camera becomes second nature. It's like learning to shift gears or ride a bicycle - only when the machine becomes transparent are you really driving.
always work on a copy
This essential guide is new for the era of digital photography. Remember that until you make a backup copy your digital photo is a one of a kind original. Make it a habit to make copies immediately after loading them from your camera, even before looking at them! Back up your images onto removable media as often as you can.
Always bring your camera
The number one reason why people miss good pictures is because they don't have a camera. Make it a habit to always carry a camera with you, because you never know what you could miss.
Shoot more
If you think you shoot enough - you don't. Especially if you have a digital camera, because there is no added cost to taking more photographs. Why take just one picture if you can take several? Are you in a place you may never visit again? Take a picture, because even the most boring day to day scenes can become historical in just a few years of time.
trust your eye
Studying laws of composition is fine, but when it comes down to you must trust your eye. When you frame the shot, move the camera and explore the scene. When you find an angle or composition that FEELS good to you, take the picture immediately. You can (and should) get several more shots.
train your eye
Look at the pictures you have taken and critique your own work. Did the image turn out like you planned? Do you like the composition? This self-review stage is essential for you to improve your photographic "spider-sense".
know your camera
You don't need to memorize every feature right away, but over time you should be comfortable enough so that operating your camera becomes second nature. It's like learning to shift gears or ride a bicycle - only when the machine becomes transparent are you really driving.
always work on a copy
This essential guide is new for the era of digital photography. Remember that until you make a backup copy your digital photo is a one of a kind original. Make it a habit to make copies immediately after loading them from your camera, even before looking at them! Back up your images onto removable media as often as you can.
nak beli DsLr..rujuk sini dulu..
how to know which camera suits you (for beginners):
dgn ini u akan tahu dlm byk2 entry level dslr, yg mana akan memenuhi limitation tu.
2. know what kind of photo you want to take. makro? sports? portrait? wildlife? family?
kenalpasti model yg memberikan paling banyak advantage pada jenis fotografi yg u paling suka.
3. plan your future investment. nak kumpul 10 lens? nak flash 3 bijik? nak beli telephoto 400mm?
sesetengah brand senang dapat lens 2nd hand, ada yg offer telephoto murah, ada yg wide angle dia ultra mengancam. jika u rasa nak invest banyak, pilih la sistem yg memberi ruang besar untuk expansion. ask yourself- is this important to me?
4. research review model2 yg u dah shortlist kat internet forum dan review. dari sini u dapat tahu kelemahan dan kelebihan model ni. saya habiskan 2 bulan untuk kaji ni sebelum pilih dslr saya.
5. what features are important to you? you nak noise rendah, anti-dust, image stabilizer, CLS, fast AF, fast burst, lightweight body, live-view?
6. gi kedai atau jumpa member dan try. note: org akan hanya kata kamera dia paling best. jarang u dengar org kutuk kamera sendiri. so to know its weakness, ask others. people knows only 2 camera- the one he has and the one he wants to buy.
7. decide on the most suitable model and get the best price from shops.
ada banya model entry level di pasaran skrg dan harga pun dah murah. byk model yg bagus2 dlm range 2k+ aje. know all you options, do your research well be a proud owner of dslr which suits you best. good luck.
camera masuk air?
mmg ngeri klu camera nie masuk air...mau nagis korang ngan air tu dan juga sLr korang tu....ada beberapa tips sekiranya camera korang tu masuk air...antaranya...jagn sesekali On camera tu..tak kira la nak test ker apa..jgn ON!klu korang on jugak..nahas la camera tu sebab kemungkinan besar korang akan menagis meraung dan bertitikan air mata yang tak basah...yer la..air kan conductor eletrik..klu on jugak..maka kadar berlaku litar pintas dlm prosesor camera tu akan berlaku juga...
cara nak satel problem camera masuk ayo...tips nie amik dari otai2 yerk dan belom dicuba pakai secara rasmi oleh padlah...mintak jauh la benda2 mcm nie...mau nagis meraung aku klu camera cayung tu masuk ayaq!
1. camera tu simpan dalam bekas tappaware dan masukkan sekali thirsty hippo..seblum tu klu ble keringkan la sket air yang ada tu guna kain...klu yang cikgu2 tu..amik jerk sket calsium klorida kontang dlm LAB kimia tu..pastu masukkan sekali dlm bekas tapaware tu....
2. camera tu keringkan dalam dry box je..dry box tu bukan mahal pon...2-3 ratus jerk..berbaloi apa beli..selain tu ble elakkan camera tu dr kena funggus...
3.masuk dalam oven selama 1/2 jam..panas kan sikit jerk..(suam2 kuku la)jgn panas pulak..nnt jadi kek korang punya camera tu..saper nak jawab nie?klu dah yakin btol2 kering baru la korang ble on...(BTOL@ YAKIN YERK)
4. jemur kat bawah cahaya matahari....yang nie klu ble jgn direct bawah matahari..takut nanti korang nyer LCD tu pulak jahnam...(maksud dia tempat kering la)
5.ada orang kata,masuk dlam bekas beras..(tak sure jd ker tak)
6.letak biji cilica nie banyak2 dlm bekas bersama2 camera kesayangan anda tu..
itu jerk la tips yang dapat..klu ble elakkan la camera anda tu kena ayaq..pasti terkedu klu kena ayaq tukan!
cara nak buang Fungus dlm body nikon
Kat setting ikon spana (Nikon) ada Mirror Lock-Up. Seblm guna, bukak lens dulu pastu set kepada on/yes dan tekan shutter. Nanti cermin yg 45 darjah tu akan naik ke atas. Guna blower (yg pancit angin tu... blow bnyk kali. Pegang body dan langkupkan ke bawah masa blow tu.
Pastu suluh la guna torchlight kut ada yg tinggal. Sy belasah guna cotton but je kalau masih ada bendasing yg degil. Kalau dah puas hati, off kamera, on balik dan dia akan berfungsi seperti biasa. Pasang balik lens dan try zoom kat tempat cerah/putih. Boleh nampak kalau masih ada fungus. Ulang le bnyk kali cara tadi. Jgn guna cecair yg diragui untuk cuci. Tak jamin kalau rosak CCD tu...
Pastu suluh la guna torchlight kut ada yg tinggal. Sy belasah guna cotton but je kalau masih ada bendasing yg degil. Kalau dah puas hati, off kamera, on balik dan dia akan berfungsi seperti biasa. Pasang balik lens dan try zoom kat tempat cerah/putih. Boleh nampak kalau masih ada fungus. Ulang le bnyk kali cara tadi. Jgn guna cecair yg diragui untuk cuci. Tak jamin kalau rosak CCD tu...
SEnrai kedai camera yang harus dilawati.
1. Engtong Systems Sdn.Bhd
No.31, Jlan SS 2/30,
47300 PETALING JAYA
SELANGOR D.E
Telephone: 03-78755211/78763955
Fax: 03-78756441
Contact person: Mr.Chan or Ms.Karen
YL CAMERASERVICE
FB-3, 1st Floor Pudu Plaza
Jalan Landak, off Jalan Pudu.
Kuala Lumpur
55100
Tel No.: +6016 218 7810
Fax No.: +603 2148 7810
Email: chliew325@hotmail.com
Mobile No.: +6012 380 6733 (Desmond)
3. TARITA PHOTO AV (SONY CENTRE)
G065 Ground Floor, Sungei Wang Plaza
Jalan Bukit Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : 03-21420228 Fax : 03-21444549
Email : tarita@tm.net.my
Contact : Julia (Shop Supervisor)
4. Direct Photo (kat area carrefour jalan peel, cheras)
Alamat: 28/2, Block N, Jln Warisan Cityview, Batu 21/2, Jln Cheras, 56100 KL. [map]
Tel: 03-9205 5868 Fax: 03-9205 5663
E-mail: sales@directphoto.com.my
Contact person: Ken 016-2281588
5. HIKE ENTERPRISE
No.364,Penang Road,
10000 Penang.
Tel/Fax : 604-229 3710
Email : leong6012@yahoo.com.tw
Contact person : Mr. Leong Chee Kheong
Company :LEOS COM TRADING
Address :Kiosk K1-2A & 2B, 1st Floor, Ampang Park Shopping Complex, Jln. Ampang
Kuala Lumpur 50450
Malaysia
Fax :603 - 2161 9950
Email :info@leoscom.com (JEFF - Manager)
No.31, Jlan SS 2/30,
47300 PETALING JAYA
SELANGOR D.E
Telephone: 03-78755211/78763955
Fax: 03-78756441
Contact person: Mr.Chan or Ms.Karen
YL CAMERASERVICE
FB-3, 1st Floor Pudu Plaza
Jalan Landak, off Jalan Pudu.
Kuala Lumpur
55100
Tel No.: +6016 218 7810
Fax No.: +603 2148 7810
Email: chliew325@hotmail.com
Mobile No.: +6012 380 6733 (Desmond)
3. TARITA PHOTO AV (SONY CENTRE)
G065 Ground Floor, Sungei Wang Plaza
Jalan Bukit Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : 03-21420228 Fax : 03-21444549
Email : tarita@tm.net.my
Contact : Julia (Shop Supervisor)
4. Direct Photo (kat area carrefour jalan peel, cheras)
Alamat: 28/2, Block N, Jln Warisan Cityview, Batu 21/2, Jln Cheras, 56100 KL. [map]
Tel: 03-9205 5868 Fax: 03-9205 5663
E-mail: sales@directphoto.com.my
Contact person: Ken 016-2281588
5. HIKE ENTERPRISE
No.364,Penang Road,
10000 Penang.
Tel/Fax : 604-229 3710
Email : leong6012@yahoo.com.tw
Contact person : Mr. Leong Chee Kheong
Company :LEOS COM TRADING
Address :Kiosk K1-2A & 2B, 1st Floor, Ampang Park Shopping Complex, Jln. Ampang
Kuala Lumpur 50450
Malaysia
Fax :603 - 2161 9950
Email :info@leoscom.com (JEFF - Manager)
Istilah Bokeh dalam Fotography
bokeh, from japanese boke, unsharp. The appearance of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image. Also, the rendition of out-of-focus image areas by a particular lens, i.e. a lens with a pleasing out-of-focus rendition is said to have ‘good bokeh.’
(Calling this type of bokeh ‘good’ and the opposite - a harsh background rendition - ‘bad’ is somewhat misleading, because ‘bad’ bokeh can in some situations look better. This is because the only slightly out-of-focus areas can appear sharper. But the usage has become fairly common now.)
(Calling this type of bokeh ‘good’ and the opposite - a harsh background rendition - ‘bad’ is somewhat misleading, because ‘bad’ bokeh can in some situations look better. This is because the only slightly out-of-focus areas can appear sharper. But the usage has become fairly common now.)
ni contoh Bokeh....
kan blakang dia blur atau kita panggil bokeh...
nak paham lagik
Bokeh describes the rendition of out-of-focus points of light.
Bokeh is different from sharpness. Sharpness is what happens at the point of best focus. Bokeh is what happens away from the point of best focus.
Bokeh describes the appearance or "feel" of out-of-focus backgrounds and foregrounds.
Differing amounts of spherical aberration alter how lenses render out-of-focus points of light, and thus their bokeh. The word "bokeh" comes from the Japanese word "boke" (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.
A technically perfect lens has no spherical aberration. Therefore a perfect lens focuses all points of light as cones of light behind the lens. The image is in focus if the film is exactly where the cone reaches its finest point. The better the lens, the tinier this point gets.
If the film is not exactly where that cone of light reaches its smallest point, then that point of the image is not in focus. Then that point is rendered on film as a disk of light, instead instead of as a point. This disc is also called the "blur circle," or "circle of confusion" by people calculating depth-of-field charts. In a lens with no spherical aberration this blur circle is an evenly illuminated disc. Out of focus points all look like perfect discs with sharp edges. (OK, at smaller apertures where the image is in pretty good focus you may see additional "Airy" rings around the circle, but that's a diffraction pattern we're not discussing here.) This isn't optimal for bokeh, since as you can imagine the sharp edge of these discs can start to give definition to things intended to be out-of-focus.
There are no perfect lenses, so one usually does not see these perfect discs.
Real lenses have some degree of spherical aberration. This means that in practice, even though all the light coming through the lens from a point on the subject may meet at a nice, tiny point on the film, that the light distribution within the cone itself may be uneven. Yes, we are getting abstract here, which is why some denser photographers refuse to try understand bokeh.
Bokeh is different from sharpness. Sharpness is what happens at the point of best focus. Bokeh is what happens away from the point of best focus.
Bokeh describes the appearance or "feel" of out-of-focus backgrounds and foregrounds.
Differing amounts of spherical aberration alter how lenses render out-of-focus points of light, and thus their bokeh. The word "bokeh" comes from the Japanese word "boke" (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.
A technically perfect lens has no spherical aberration. Therefore a perfect lens focuses all points of light as cones of light behind the lens. The image is in focus if the film is exactly where the cone reaches its finest point. The better the lens, the tinier this point gets.
If the film is not exactly where that cone of light reaches its smallest point, then that point of the image is not in focus. Then that point is rendered on film as a disk of light, instead instead of as a point. This disc is also called the "blur circle," or "circle of confusion" by people calculating depth-of-field charts. In a lens with no spherical aberration this blur circle is an evenly illuminated disc. Out of focus points all look like perfect discs with sharp edges. (OK, at smaller apertures where the image is in pretty good focus you may see additional "Airy" rings around the circle, but that's a diffraction pattern we're not discussing here.) This isn't optimal for bokeh, since as you can imagine the sharp edge of these discs can start to give definition to things intended to be out-of-focus.
There are no perfect lenses, so one usually does not see these perfect discs.
Real lenses have some degree of spherical aberration. This means that in practice, even though all the light coming through the lens from a point on the subject may meet at a nice, tiny point on the film, that the light distribution within the cone itself may be uneven. Yes, we are getting abstract here, which is why some denser photographers refuse to try understand bokeh.
Teknik2 memfokus
Pada masa ini terdapat 2 jenis fokus iaitu manual dan autofokus:
a. Manual. - Jenis fokus manual amat popular sekitar 80an. Pada era tahun
90an jenis SLR AF yang amat popular. Jika kita menghendaki imej menjadi jelas
kita perlu membuat fokus yang tepat ke atas objek yang dipilih. Skrin fokus
mempunyai tiga bahagian utama di dalam splitimej (Imej terpisah):
(1) Split Image (Imej terpisah)
(2) Gelang Mikro Prisma
(3) Skrin Fokus.
Teknik-teknik memfokus
ZOOM IN
FOCUS
ZOOM OUT
FRAMING
SHOT
Teknik Mencari Titik Fokus
1. Perlulah menfokus ke bahagian yang bersudut seperti kolar baju, poket dan sebagainya.
2. Titik fokus tidak semestinya berada ditengah-tengah ada kalanya ianya berada di perantaraan objek yang hendak dirakam contohnya seperti gambar foto group
Imej yang hendak difokus, objek tersebut dilihat melalui pemidang telek. Pada masa yang sama badan kamera diletakkan di tangan kanan dan tangan kiri hendaklah menentukan gelang fokus dan mata kanan hendak digunakan untuk melihat objek:
(a) Split image (Image Terpisah).
(b) Diagonal Split Imej (Imej pisah lintang penjuru)
a. Manual. - Jenis fokus manual amat popular sekitar 80an. Pada era tahun
90an jenis SLR AF yang amat popular. Jika kita menghendaki imej menjadi jelas
kita perlu membuat fokus yang tepat ke atas objek yang dipilih. Skrin fokus
mempunyai tiga bahagian utama di dalam splitimej (Imej terpisah):
(1) Split Image (Imej terpisah)
(2) Gelang Mikro Prisma
(3) Skrin Fokus.
Teknik-teknik memfokus
ZOOM IN
FOCUS
ZOOM OUT
FRAMING
SHOT
Teknik Mencari Titik Fokus
1. Perlulah menfokus ke bahagian yang bersudut seperti kolar baju, poket dan sebagainya.
2. Titik fokus tidak semestinya berada ditengah-tengah ada kalanya ianya berada di perantaraan objek yang hendak dirakam contohnya seperti gambar foto group
Imej yang hendak difokus, objek tersebut dilihat melalui pemidang telek. Pada masa yang sama badan kamera diletakkan di tangan kanan dan tangan kiri hendaklah menentukan gelang fokus dan mata kanan hendak digunakan untuk melihat objek:
(a) Split image (Image Terpisah).
(b) Diagonal Split Imej (Imej pisah lintang penjuru)
setting ISO
klu
siang tengah hari..
Iso: 100-200
petang/maghrib/senja/hening pagi.....
Iso:600-800
malam@kurang Cahaya: >800-1600
Yang penting...pandai2 tengok situasi atau keadaan tempat tu
Bukaan aparture
Aperture ialah luas bukaan lens. lens tu, lubang laluan cahaya boleh adjust besar-kecik. kalau lubang kecik, cahaya masuk sikit. kalau lubang besar, banyak la cahaya masuk.
nombor aperture tu ialah nisbah luas bukaan lubang dgn jarak fokus. ok, x yah nak pening2 kepala. cuma perlu tahu f2.8 bukannnya lagi luas drp f4 dan seterusnya.
nombor aperture tu ialah nisbah luas bukaan lubang dgn jarak fokus. ok, x yah nak pening2 kepala. cuma perlu tahu f2.8 bukannnya lagi luas drp f4 dan seterusnya.
nak mudah paham..korang tengok nota
gambar bawah nie
ISO/Apperture/Shutter Speed
imej dalam fotografi digital dihasilkan oleh sensor, dan ini bergantung pada pencahayaan yg tepat. pencahayaan kita kira pada 3
1. underexposed = kurang cahaya
2. cahaya cukup
3. over exposed = lebih cahaya
konsep ni mula2 mungkin susah nak faham sebab saban hari kita hidup dgn mata manusia yg mempunyai auto-exposure paling canggih. kalau nak experience underexpose, cuba masuk bilik gelap tiba2. nak over expose lak, pejam mata 5 minit dan tengok tempat cerah. dalam dua2 kes ni, anda akan merasakan exposure x tepat untuk beberapa saat sebelum iris mata tu calibrate semula.
3 benda yg kita boleh kawal untuk dapatkan cahaya cukup ialah ISO, aperture dan shutter speed.
aperture ialah nisbah luas bukaan lens berbanding jarak fokus. kalau aperture luas, banyak la cahaya masuk.
shutter speed ialah tempoh shutter tu didedah. kalau dedah lama, banyak la cahaya masuk.
ISO ialah sensitiviti sensor. kalau tingkatkan sensitiviti, banyak la cahaya yg dirakam.
selain mengawal jumlah cahaya yg masuk ke sensor, ketiga2 ni juga mengawal beberapa aspek lain. tu pasal kita kawal 3 benda agar bukan sahaja gambar tu cukup cahaya tapi memberikan effect yg dikehendaki. contohnya kalau shutter slow, gambar boleh jadi blur. kalau ISO tinggi, akan menampakkan noise (bintik2). mendapatkan nilai terbaik dalam keadaan pencahayaan yg x menentu adalah cabaran untuk jurufoto.
1. underexposed = kurang cahaya
2. cahaya cukup
3. over exposed = lebih cahaya
konsep ni mula2 mungkin susah nak faham sebab saban hari kita hidup dgn mata manusia yg mempunyai auto-exposure paling canggih. kalau nak experience underexpose, cuba masuk bilik gelap tiba2. nak over expose lak, pejam mata 5 minit dan tengok tempat cerah. dalam dua2 kes ni, anda akan merasakan exposure x tepat untuk beberapa saat sebelum iris mata tu calibrate semula.
3 benda yg kita boleh kawal untuk dapatkan cahaya cukup ialah ISO, aperture dan shutter speed.
aperture ialah nisbah luas bukaan lens berbanding jarak fokus. kalau aperture luas, banyak la cahaya masuk.
shutter speed ialah tempoh shutter tu didedah. kalau dedah lama, banyak la cahaya masuk.
ISO ialah sensitiviti sensor. kalau tingkatkan sensitiviti, banyak la cahaya yg dirakam.
selain mengawal jumlah cahaya yg masuk ke sensor, ketiga2 ni juga mengawal beberapa aspek lain. tu pasal kita kawal 3 benda agar bukan sahaja gambar tu cukup cahaya tapi memberikan effect yg dikehendaki. contohnya kalau shutter slow, gambar boleh jadi blur. kalau ISO tinggi, akan menampakkan noise (bintik2). mendapatkan nilai terbaik dalam keadaan pencahayaan yg x menentu adalah cabaran untuk jurufoto.
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