1. Engtong Systems Sdn.Bhd
No.31, Jlan SS 2/30,
47300 PETALING JAYA
SELANGOR D.E
Telephone: 03-78755211/78763955
Fax: 03-78756441
Contact person: Mr.Chan or Ms.Karen
YL CAMERASERVICE
FB-3, 1st Floor Pudu Plaza
Jalan Landak, off Jalan Pudu.
Kuala Lumpur
55100
Tel No.: +6016 218 7810
Fax No.: +603 2148 7810
Email: chliew325@hotmail.com
Mobile No.: +6012 380 6733 (Desmond)
3. TARITA PHOTO AV (SONY CENTRE)
G065 Ground Floor, Sungei Wang Plaza
Jalan Bukit Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : 03-21420228 Fax : 03-21444549
Email : tarita@tm.net.my
Contact : Julia (Shop Supervisor)
4. Direct Photo (kat area carrefour jalan peel, cheras)
Alamat: 28/2, Block N, Jln Warisan Cityview, Batu 21/2, Jln Cheras, 56100 KL. [map]
Tel: 03-9205 5868 Fax: 03-9205 5663
E-mail: sales@directphoto.com.my
Contact person: Ken 016-2281588
5. HIKE ENTERPRISE
No.364,Penang Road,
10000 Penang.
Tel/Fax : 604-229 3710
Email : leong6012@yahoo.com.tw
Contact person : Mr. Leong Chee Kheong
Company :LEOS COM TRADING
Address :Kiosk K1-2A & 2B, 1st Floor, Ampang Park Shopping Complex, Jln. Ampang
Kuala Lumpur 50450
Malaysia
Fax :603 - 2161 9950
Email :info@leoscom.com (JEFF - Manager)
Istilah Bokeh dalam Fotography
bokeh, from japanese boke, unsharp. The appearance of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image. Also, the rendition of out-of-focus image areas by a particular lens, i.e. a lens with a pleasing out-of-focus rendition is said to have ‘good bokeh.’
(Calling this type of bokeh ‘good’ and the opposite - a harsh background rendition - ‘bad’ is somewhat misleading, because ‘bad’ bokeh can in some situations look better. This is because the only slightly out-of-focus areas can appear sharper. But the usage has become fairly common now.)
(Calling this type of bokeh ‘good’ and the opposite - a harsh background rendition - ‘bad’ is somewhat misleading, because ‘bad’ bokeh can in some situations look better. This is because the only slightly out-of-focus areas can appear sharper. But the usage has become fairly common now.)
ni contoh Bokeh....
kan blakang dia blur atau kita panggil bokeh...
nak paham lagik
Bokeh describes the rendition of out-of-focus points of light.
Bokeh is different from sharpness. Sharpness is what happens at the point of best focus. Bokeh is what happens away from the point of best focus.
Bokeh describes the appearance or "feel" of out-of-focus backgrounds and foregrounds.
Differing amounts of spherical aberration alter how lenses render out-of-focus points of light, and thus their bokeh. The word "bokeh" comes from the Japanese word "boke" (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.
A technically perfect lens has no spherical aberration. Therefore a perfect lens focuses all points of light as cones of light behind the lens. The image is in focus if the film is exactly where the cone reaches its finest point. The better the lens, the tinier this point gets.
If the film is not exactly where that cone of light reaches its smallest point, then that point of the image is not in focus. Then that point is rendered on film as a disk of light, instead instead of as a point. This disc is also called the "blur circle," or "circle of confusion" by people calculating depth-of-field charts. In a lens with no spherical aberration this blur circle is an evenly illuminated disc. Out of focus points all look like perfect discs with sharp edges. (OK, at smaller apertures where the image is in pretty good focus you may see additional "Airy" rings around the circle, but that's a diffraction pattern we're not discussing here.) This isn't optimal for bokeh, since as you can imagine the sharp edge of these discs can start to give definition to things intended to be out-of-focus.
There are no perfect lenses, so one usually does not see these perfect discs.
Real lenses have some degree of spherical aberration. This means that in practice, even though all the light coming through the lens from a point on the subject may meet at a nice, tiny point on the film, that the light distribution within the cone itself may be uneven. Yes, we are getting abstract here, which is why some denser photographers refuse to try understand bokeh.
Bokeh is different from sharpness. Sharpness is what happens at the point of best focus. Bokeh is what happens away from the point of best focus.
Bokeh describes the appearance or "feel" of out-of-focus backgrounds and foregrounds.
Differing amounts of spherical aberration alter how lenses render out-of-focus points of light, and thus their bokeh. The word "bokeh" comes from the Japanese word "boke" (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.
A technically perfect lens has no spherical aberration. Therefore a perfect lens focuses all points of light as cones of light behind the lens. The image is in focus if the film is exactly where the cone reaches its finest point. The better the lens, the tinier this point gets.
If the film is not exactly where that cone of light reaches its smallest point, then that point of the image is not in focus. Then that point is rendered on film as a disk of light, instead instead of as a point. This disc is also called the "blur circle," or "circle of confusion" by people calculating depth-of-field charts. In a lens with no spherical aberration this blur circle is an evenly illuminated disc. Out of focus points all look like perfect discs with sharp edges. (OK, at smaller apertures where the image is in pretty good focus you may see additional "Airy" rings around the circle, but that's a diffraction pattern we're not discussing here.) This isn't optimal for bokeh, since as you can imagine the sharp edge of these discs can start to give definition to things intended to be out-of-focus.
There are no perfect lenses, so one usually does not see these perfect discs.
Real lenses have some degree of spherical aberration. This means that in practice, even though all the light coming through the lens from a point on the subject may meet at a nice, tiny point on the film, that the light distribution within the cone itself may be uneven. Yes, we are getting abstract here, which is why some denser photographers refuse to try understand bokeh.
Teknik2 memfokus
Pada masa ini terdapat 2 jenis fokus iaitu manual dan autofokus:
a. Manual. - Jenis fokus manual amat popular sekitar 80an. Pada era tahun
90an jenis SLR AF yang amat popular. Jika kita menghendaki imej menjadi jelas
kita perlu membuat fokus yang tepat ke atas objek yang dipilih. Skrin fokus
mempunyai tiga bahagian utama di dalam splitimej (Imej terpisah):
(1) Split Image (Imej terpisah)
(2) Gelang Mikro Prisma
(3) Skrin Fokus.
Teknik-teknik memfokus
ZOOM IN
FOCUS
ZOOM OUT
FRAMING
SHOT
Teknik Mencari Titik Fokus
1. Perlulah menfokus ke bahagian yang bersudut seperti kolar baju, poket dan sebagainya.
2. Titik fokus tidak semestinya berada ditengah-tengah ada kalanya ianya berada di perantaraan objek yang hendak dirakam contohnya seperti gambar foto group
Imej yang hendak difokus, objek tersebut dilihat melalui pemidang telek. Pada masa yang sama badan kamera diletakkan di tangan kanan dan tangan kiri hendaklah menentukan gelang fokus dan mata kanan hendak digunakan untuk melihat objek:
(a) Split image (Image Terpisah).
(b) Diagonal Split Imej (Imej pisah lintang penjuru)
a. Manual. - Jenis fokus manual amat popular sekitar 80an. Pada era tahun
90an jenis SLR AF yang amat popular. Jika kita menghendaki imej menjadi jelas
kita perlu membuat fokus yang tepat ke atas objek yang dipilih. Skrin fokus
mempunyai tiga bahagian utama di dalam splitimej (Imej terpisah):
(1) Split Image (Imej terpisah)
(2) Gelang Mikro Prisma
(3) Skrin Fokus.
Teknik-teknik memfokus
ZOOM IN
FOCUS
ZOOM OUT
FRAMING
SHOT
Teknik Mencari Titik Fokus
1. Perlulah menfokus ke bahagian yang bersudut seperti kolar baju, poket dan sebagainya.
2. Titik fokus tidak semestinya berada ditengah-tengah ada kalanya ianya berada di perantaraan objek yang hendak dirakam contohnya seperti gambar foto group
Imej yang hendak difokus, objek tersebut dilihat melalui pemidang telek. Pada masa yang sama badan kamera diletakkan di tangan kanan dan tangan kiri hendaklah menentukan gelang fokus dan mata kanan hendak digunakan untuk melihat objek:
(a) Split image (Image Terpisah).
(b) Diagonal Split Imej (Imej pisah lintang penjuru)
setting ISO
klu
siang tengah hari..
Iso: 100-200
petang/maghrib/senja/hening pagi.....
Iso:600-800
malam@kurang Cahaya: >800-1600
Yang penting...pandai2 tengok situasi atau keadaan tempat tu
Bukaan aparture
Aperture ialah luas bukaan lens. lens tu, lubang laluan cahaya boleh adjust besar-kecik. kalau lubang kecik, cahaya masuk sikit. kalau lubang besar, banyak la cahaya masuk.
nombor aperture tu ialah nisbah luas bukaan lubang dgn jarak fokus. ok, x yah nak pening2 kepala. cuma perlu tahu f2.8 bukannnya lagi luas drp f4 dan seterusnya.
nombor aperture tu ialah nisbah luas bukaan lubang dgn jarak fokus. ok, x yah nak pening2 kepala. cuma perlu tahu f2.8 bukannnya lagi luas drp f4 dan seterusnya.
nak mudah paham..korang tengok nota
gambar bawah nie
ISO/Apperture/Shutter Speed
imej dalam fotografi digital dihasilkan oleh sensor, dan ini bergantung pada pencahayaan yg tepat. pencahayaan kita kira pada 3
1. underexposed = kurang cahaya
2. cahaya cukup
3. over exposed = lebih cahaya
konsep ni mula2 mungkin susah nak faham sebab saban hari kita hidup dgn mata manusia yg mempunyai auto-exposure paling canggih. kalau nak experience underexpose, cuba masuk bilik gelap tiba2. nak over expose lak, pejam mata 5 minit dan tengok tempat cerah. dalam dua2 kes ni, anda akan merasakan exposure x tepat untuk beberapa saat sebelum iris mata tu calibrate semula.
3 benda yg kita boleh kawal untuk dapatkan cahaya cukup ialah ISO, aperture dan shutter speed.
aperture ialah nisbah luas bukaan lens berbanding jarak fokus. kalau aperture luas, banyak la cahaya masuk.
shutter speed ialah tempoh shutter tu didedah. kalau dedah lama, banyak la cahaya masuk.
ISO ialah sensitiviti sensor. kalau tingkatkan sensitiviti, banyak la cahaya yg dirakam.
selain mengawal jumlah cahaya yg masuk ke sensor, ketiga2 ni juga mengawal beberapa aspek lain. tu pasal kita kawal 3 benda agar bukan sahaja gambar tu cukup cahaya tapi memberikan effect yg dikehendaki. contohnya kalau shutter slow, gambar boleh jadi blur. kalau ISO tinggi, akan menampakkan noise (bintik2). mendapatkan nilai terbaik dalam keadaan pencahayaan yg x menentu adalah cabaran untuk jurufoto.
1. underexposed = kurang cahaya
2. cahaya cukup
3. over exposed = lebih cahaya
konsep ni mula2 mungkin susah nak faham sebab saban hari kita hidup dgn mata manusia yg mempunyai auto-exposure paling canggih. kalau nak experience underexpose, cuba masuk bilik gelap tiba2. nak over expose lak, pejam mata 5 minit dan tengok tempat cerah. dalam dua2 kes ni, anda akan merasakan exposure x tepat untuk beberapa saat sebelum iris mata tu calibrate semula.
3 benda yg kita boleh kawal untuk dapatkan cahaya cukup ialah ISO, aperture dan shutter speed.
aperture ialah nisbah luas bukaan lens berbanding jarak fokus. kalau aperture luas, banyak la cahaya masuk.
shutter speed ialah tempoh shutter tu didedah. kalau dedah lama, banyak la cahaya masuk.
ISO ialah sensitiviti sensor. kalau tingkatkan sensitiviti, banyak la cahaya yg dirakam.
selain mengawal jumlah cahaya yg masuk ke sensor, ketiga2 ni juga mengawal beberapa aspek lain. tu pasal kita kawal 3 benda agar bukan sahaja gambar tu cukup cahaya tapi memberikan effect yg dikehendaki. contohnya kalau shutter slow, gambar boleh jadi blur. kalau ISO tinggi, akan menampakkan noise (bintik2). mendapatkan nilai terbaik dalam keadaan pencahayaan yg x menentu adalah cabaran untuk jurufoto.
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